Control of Hazardous Chemicals in Cosmetic Products: Striking Findings from ECHA's Pilot Project

A pilot inspection project conducted by the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) revealed that 6% of the cosmetic products examined in the European Economic Area (EEA) contained banned hazardous chemicals. These hazardous substances, particularly Persistent Organic Pollutants (POPs) and chemicals that are not permitted for use in cosmetics under the REACH regulations, stand out. This project carried out by ECHA's Enforcement Forum significantly contributes to efforts to monitor and control chemicals in cosmetic products.

Chemicals in Cosmetics

Control Process and Findings

National audit authorities in 13 EEA countries investigated approximately 4,500 cosmetic products, particularly examining the presence of perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA), long-chain perfluoroalkyl carboxylic acids (PFCAs), and cyclic siloxanes known as D4 and D5. As a result of these audits, 285 products containing banned substances were identified. The main banned chemicals found in these products are as follows:

- Perfluorononyl dimethicone

- Perfluorooctyl ethyl triethoxysilane

- Perfluorononyl ethyl carboxydimethyl PEG-10 dimethicone

- Cyclopentasiloxane (D5), Cyclomethicone (combinations of D4, D5, and D6), Cyclotetrasiloxane (D4)

These chemicals are classified as persistent organic pollutants (POPs) or defined as highly persistent, bioaccumulative, and toxic (PBT/vPvB) hazardous substances, posing serious risks to both human health and the environment. Therefore, their use in cosmetic products has been prohibited under the Stockholm POPs Convention or REACH Regulation.

Monitoring Harmful Chemicals in Cosmetic Products

A notable finding in the pilot project is that perfluorononyl dimethicone is most commonly found in pencil-form products such as eyeliners and lipsticks. D4 and D5 substances have been detected in hair care products, particularly in conditioners and hair masks.

Perfluorononyl dimethicone breaks down into PFOA and long-chain perfluoroalkyl carboxylic acids. PFOA and D4/D5 siloxanes slowly degrade in the environment and accumulate in biological structures. PFOA, besides being environmentally persistent, is a substance suspected of harming reproductive health and causing cancer. Similarly, D4 is considered a chemical that may negatively affect fertility. This situation indicates that these substances pose long-term risks to human health and the environment.

Methods and Conclusions of Audits

The audits were primarily conducted by examining product ingredient lists. This method is also an easily accessible and practical control tool for consumers. Thus, consumers can become aware of avoiding banned substances by paying attention to product ingredient lists. The examinations showed that banned chemicals are found in various cosmetic products, across different vendors and price ranges.

As a result of the audits, steps were taken to remove non-compliant products from the market. In this context, initial written warnings were issued to suppliers regarding compliance with the laws, and guidance was provided to ensure compliance. When the project report was prepared, investigations were still ongoing in approximately half of the cases.

The Importance of Compliance with POPs and REACH Regulation

ECHA plays a fundamental role in the management of chemicals within the European Union, and the use of certain chemicals in cosmetic mixtures is restricted under REACH and POPs regulations. This pilot project contributes to the protection of environmental and public health by promoting the consistent application of compliance in cosmetic monitoring processes involving hazardous chemicals such as PFOA, PFCAs, and D4/D5.

Projects of this kind aimed at chemicals that pose environmental and health risks in Europe support the strengthening of chemical control policies and harmonization between countries. Keeping the use of chemicals in cosmetic products under stricter supervision aims not only to protect human health but also to preserve natural ecosystems. Thanks to such projects, the chemical safety awareness across the EEA is increased, and the introduction of safer products in the cosmetic sector is encouraged.

Recommendations for Consumers

In light of these findings, it is crucial for consumers who want to avoid hazardous chemicals in cosmetic products to carefully examine ingredient lists. Particularly, it should be considered that products containing chemicals such as PFOA, D4, and D5 may pose health risks. By checking the ingredient list when purchasing products, consumers can avoid banned chemicals and make safer product choices.

ECHA's pilot audit project is an essential part of efforts to reduce the use of hazardous chemicals in cosmetic products. The results of the project provide significant contributions not only to the sector but also to consumers and environmental health.